Introduction: The Rock Doesn’t Lie, But Your Shoes Might
If you're reading this, you’re probably somewhere between “I’m kinda into climbing” and “I now judge walls by how climbable they look.” Welcome to the tribe. Now, let’s talk shoes.
Climbing shoes aren’t just gear—they’re your weapon, your dance partner, your second skin. And if you think they don’t make that much of a difference, then my friend, you’ve been climbing in the wrong ones.
As someone who has spent more time hanging off plastic holds than sitting at a desk, I’ve tested more climbing shoes than I’d like to admit. From bouldering dynos to sport cruxes to desperate slab smears—these shoes have seen it all. So in this article, I’m not going to give you a boring “this shoe is good” list. I’ll tell you what works, what fails, and what will make you feel like Spider-Man with better fashion sense.
Let’s get vertical.👀
1. La Sportiva Solution Comp — The Aggressive Artist
If climbing were an art form (and let’s be real—it is), the Solution Comp is your paintbrush.
Why It Rocks:
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Ultra-aggressive downturn for toe precision
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Sensitive toe box for powerful edges
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Incredible heel-hook security
This shoe wants problems to solve. It begs for overhangs and steep bouldering caves. The aggressive profile may feel like a medieval torture device when you first slip them on—but once you hit the wall, it becomes part of you. It’s the kind of shoe that forces you to use your feet more cleverly.
Best For:
Boulderers, comp climbers, and anyone trying to fake stronger fingers with smarter feet.
Watch Out:
Definitely not your Sunday cruising shoe. You don’t break these out for chill top-rope laps unless you hate your toes.
2. Scarpa Instinct VS — The Powerhouse with a Soft Side
Think of the Instinct VS as your reliable friend who deadlifts 2x your weight but still knows how to cook a five-course meal.
Why It Rocks:
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Stiff enough for edging, soft enough for smearing
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Vibram XS Edge rubber sticks like peanut butter
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Reinforced heel for solid heel hooks
The Instinct VS bridges that rare middle ground between power and sensitivity. It's the go-to shoe for people who want to transition between styles without switching shoes. If I could only take one pair to an unknown gym or crag, it’d probably be these.
Best For:
All-arounders, sport climbers, and boulderers who want versatility without compromise.
Watch Out:
The rubber is grippy but wears out faster with aggressive use. Treat them like a good espresso—use, don’t abuse.
3. Tenaya Mastia — The Underdog That Bites
You’ve probably heard of Tenaya if you hang out with the Euros, but in the States, it's still criminally underrated.
Why It Rocks:
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Balanced profile: semi-aggressive but super comfy
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Precision toe for micro-edges
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Surprisingly flexible midsole for powerful pushes
Mastia is like the perfect first date: not too aggressive, but exciting enough to make you want more. It shines on vertical to slightly overhanging routes. The toe precision is excellent without sacrificing comfort, which is rare.
Best For:
Intermediate climbers making the leap to harder grades. Also great for long sessions where performance and pain-free coexist.
Watch Out:
Less ideal for gnarly heel hooks or super steep roof climbing. It's a finesser, not a thug.
4. Evolv Shaman Pro — Chris Sharma's Legacy, Now Softer and Meaner
Designed with input from Chris Sharma himself, this version of the Shaman is way more than a marketing gimmick.
Why It Rocks:
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Incredible fit due to “love bump” technology
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Massive toe rubber patch for toe hooks
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Built to handle hard overhangs with power
Shaman Pro is built for big moves and burly problems. It’s aggressive, it’s grippy, and it practically demands a shirtless try-hard session. It’s also one of the best-fitting synthetic shoes out there, making it a vegan-friendly beast.
Best For:
Hard bouldering, steeps, and Sharma impersonators
Watch Out:
Takes a bit to break in, and not the most breathable option for hot summer days.
5. Butora Acro Comp — Wide Fit, Narrow Focus
Butora is the kind of brand that quietly wins people over—and the Acro Comp is its mic-drop moment.
Why It Rocks:
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Comes in wide and narrow fits for actual human feet
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Soft and supple, making it great for indoor comps
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Precise toe and responsive heel for comp-style problems
If you’ve ever hated the painful toe curl most shoes force on you, the wide fit option here will feel like a warm hug from your grandma—with rubber.
Best For:
Indoor climbers, wide-footed crushers, and those who want comp-style precision
Watch Out:
Outdoors, the rubber can feel a bit soft on rough rock. Save them for plastic.
Bonus Section: “Wait, But What About...?”
Yes, there are other great shoes. The Miura VS is still legendary. The Five Ten Hiangle Pro is a comp beast. And if you swear by your Anasazis, I salute your loyalty. But the five I picked aren’t just good—they’re relevant for 2025. They reflect where climbing is going: more comp-style movement, more versatility, and a higher demand for comfort without sacrificing performance.
How to Choose the Right Shoe for You
Let’s get personal. The right shoe isn’t the one with the highest price tag or the most Instagram likes. It’s the one that makes you climb better—and smile while doing it.
Ask yourself:
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Do I value comfort or performance more?
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Am I mostly climbing indoors or outdoors?
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Do I struggle more on smears, edges, or toe hooks?
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Do I want something aggressive or moderate?
Visit a gym that lets you try on shoes. Don’t just order online unless you’ve worn that brand before. Fit matters—badly.
Conclusion: The Shoe You Wear Tells a Story
Every scratch on your rubber tells a story. Every worn toe patch holds memories of projects sent or dreams still pending. Your climbing shoe isn’t just gear—it’s your partner in crime.
So whether you’re a V2 warrior or chasing V10 sends, invest in the shoe that suits you. In 2025, there are more options than ever, and there’s no excuse to settle for less than awesome.
Now go get them chalked and climb something beautiful.
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